the darien gap - a haven for orchids, terrorists and kidnappings

Glenn Duggan, who is the chairman of Cattisfield Gardening Club, served in the Royal Navy for just under 30 years, He is also a bird photographer and artist and has visited over 100 countries. He served at the Royal Naval Hospital Haslar for 3½ years where he did research work on their collection of rare and valuable Natural History books and was awarded with Fellowship of the Zoological Society London. His interest in birds and nature led him on an expedition to explore the Darien Gap, looking for rare and new species of Orchids.

Glenn asked as what we thought of when Panama was mentioned, and the answer was mostly “hats” and the Panama Canal. Glenn went on to give us some interesting details on the Panama Canal. It is approximately 5234 miles with lock gates at both ends and in between to enable ships to pass through.  The Panama Hat, which originated in Ecuador, was used by workers on the Canal, which was started by the French and finished by the USA. Over 10,000 people died building the Canal. The area it passes through is very rugged with hills, mountains and a constant temperature of around 30C with a low of 23C. There is a rainy season from May to December. The lock gates in the Canal are required as the interior of Panama is 85 ft higher in the centre of the country than it is at the north and southern end, so locks lift the ships up as they enter from the Atlantic and lift them back down as they come to the Pacific.

There are over 10,444 plant species in Panama, Glenn gave us a quick overview of some;

The Achiote – a shrub or small tree with red /brown seed pods

The Cannonball tree – a member of the Brasil nut but its small seeds are not commercial

The Shingle Plant – a creeping vine

Poor Man’s Umbrella  - whose leaves are large enough to be used as a makeshift umbrella

Machete – a member of the pea family with copious supplies of Nectar.

Hot lips shrub – It's bracts resembling lips and loved by hummingbirds

Orchids – over 1401 species such as the Holy Ghost Orchid, Panamas National flower, it is a peristaria elata orchid and is a protected flower.

There is also the Lady of Night Orchid with a lovely nighttime aroma.

The Spanish flag Orchid, often found by the roadside

The Sorbalia citrea Orchid – a long stemmed orchid, big and bold

The trichosalpinx orbicularis Orchid – a miniature orchid, it’s tiny,

The Turtle Orchid – Rossioglossum ampliatum which can be found in the UK

The Stanhopea maduroi orchid – with very fragrant downward facing flowers

Stanhopea orchids which have over 30 varieties in North America and 15 varieties in South America and more species to find!!

Glenn then gave us an overview of three very special areas in Panama:

The Gamboa Rainforest Resort – just 30 minutes from Panama City, it was established during the construction of the Panama Canal in the 1930’s. It housed workers and their families and has since transformed into a luxury hotel in the middle of a rainforest. There is bird life, flowers and an orchid garden. It offers easy access via the “pipeline road” located in Soberania National Park, a renowned birdwatching and wildlife viewing destination with a canopy tower, a converted US Airforce communication tower giving fantastic views over the canopy of the rainforest.

Boquete, a hotel and coffee plantation in the foothills of the Andes, nestled in the Western Highlands of Panama, known for its flowers and cool climate. It is a special place for flowers, hosting an International Flower Show each year. There is also the Finca Dracula, a big orchid farm where you can order orchids worldwide and known for the Dracula Orchid, as well as rainforest and birds, including the Quetzal, the Mayan “bird of the gods” and known as the most beautiful bird in the world!

The Darien Gap – Lying on the border with Colombia, Glenn not only gave us an insight into one of the most remote and dangerous places in the world, known as the Darien Gap, which consists of dense jungle, swamps and mountains and is a break in the Pan American Highway, which stretches from Alaska to Argentina, consisting of a 96 kilometer stretch of roadless, largely uninhabited and extremely difficult terrain between Panama and Columbia. The Darien Gap is known for its harsh conditions including thick vegetation, muddy terrain, rivers, insects and potential dangers from wildlife and criminal activity. It’s also a significant route for migrants travelling from South America to North America, adding another layer of complexity and danger, and is patrolled by a Guerrilla group called FARCS, which tried to topple the Columbian Government and uses the jungle to store drugs before shipping them out on submarines. The only way through the Darien Gap are via jungle tracks. It is hot, humid with biting insects, 227 reptile species, 127 snake species of which 20 are poisonous, including several which are the most deadly and aggressive such as the Fer de Lance snake, the EYE lash pit viper and the bushmaster as well as the jumping pit viper the hognosed pitviper and the Parrot snake. There are also 57 varieties of ticks (in the UK you can find 9 varieties), which all spread illness. Also flies and spiders including the Brazilian wandering spider, the most venomous in the world, along with scorpions and 200 species of mosquitoes.

Then there are trees such as the Chungapalm with 3 to 6” needle sharp appendages used as a chemical defence. The Foreign Office advises that should you wish to travel there you will find pristine jungle with everything bad for you and you will probably be killed!

However, it is also one of the last natural frontiers in the world with a plethora of unknown fauna and flora and attracts naturalists from around the world intrigued by the potential of finding new and rare species of plants, flowers, birds and especially ORCHIDS!

Glenn asked us if we knew the connection between Miranda, the Darian and Orchids? As no one could guess, he clarified that Miranda’s cousins promised their Grandma to find a new species of orchid and name it after her and travelled to the Darien to do just that. Unfortunately, they were kidnapped by the FARC Guerilla group and disappeared for 8 months, and then, miraculously the FARC allowed them to go with all their possessions. They pointed them in the right direction and after walking all day, the cousins arrived back at the camp they had left that morning!! OOPS, but the FARC were still in a kindly mood and gave them one more chance to go and this time they got out safely!!

When Glenn travelled to the Darien Gap with his expedition they were flown in via a small plane who left them and their possessions in the middle of a jungle after landing and taking off again on a very small makeshift runway. The group then set off to Cana Camp, a tiny grass strip of land with tents for accommodation.

Amongst the plants they saw were the “walking tree” which kills of the roots of plants around it, then grows its own roots in their place to get closer to light. They trekked up Mount Pierre to see unique flowers and birds in the Cloud Forest. The conditions were very muddy, hot, and wet. They were on the border with Columbia, and it was a 4,500-to-5000-foot climb to get up to the camp on top of which had tents and some cover to keep off the rain. An armed guard was always with them. They were able to photograph the Mount Pierre Screech Owl, thanks to the guide giving the Owls call, which the bird heard and followed them into the camp to sit on the Guides tent!

They shared their camp with lizards, the largest cockroaches Glenn had ever seen, a Harpy Eagle Moth, Jesus Christ Lizards (which walk on water), 2 and 3 toed sloths, a large python, 12ft in length and hummingbirds. Glenn was able to take some amazing photos.

In the understory it is very dark, and the main action is up above you with lots of things ready to bite you in the hot and humid and rainy environment, as it’s very difficult to see into the canopy. 

Should any of us be inspired to undertake a similar expedition, Glenn had a few tips and tricks to share: Firstly, use Jungle Formula insect repellent and spray it not only on exposed skin but also inside your socks and trousers and clothing. He also recommended getting some Noslife Travel clothes which is insect repellent clothing. He emphasised wearing loose comfy clothes, good boots and gaters and a mosquito net is essential for sleeping!

It’s off to book that Darien adventure then!! Thank you, Glenn, for an amazing insight into Panama as well as the Darien Gap!

Katrien Burrows